Flashing LEDs
The LEDs can have different meanings depending on what you are doing. If you are not calibrating and have no throttle input then: Flashing Green OR Red = Speed control has not been calibrated and is not armed; or throttle sub-trim is not at 0. Solid Green OR Red = should not happen when at neutral, indicates full throttle/reverse. Yellow LED flashing - Indicates the ESC at neutral. Motor type set to Sensored only brushless mode with CHEAT mode disabled; ESC is armed and ready to drive. Yellow LED is solid – Indicates the ESC at neutral. Motor motor type set to Smart Sense Brushless or Sensored only brushless mode with CHEAT mode enabled; ESC is armed and ready to drive. Flashing green, red and yellow while beeping = speed control is not receiving a valid signal from the receiver, usually indicates the receiver wire is plugged in backwards into the receiver; possible problem with controller or with throttle channel on receiver. If you are applying throttle or reverse when NOT calibrating: Flashing Green OR Red = indicates partial throttle (green) or reverse (red). Solid Green OR Red = indicates full throttle (green) or reverse (red). Flashing green, red and yellow while beeping = speed control is not receiving a valid signal from the receiver, usually indicates the receiver wire is plugged in backwards into the receiver; possible problem with controller or with throttle channel on receiver. Solid or Flashing Yellow - ESC is seeing a neutral signal. If it does not change then you are either plugged into the wrong channel on the receiver or there is a problem with your radio. If you are applying throttle or reverse WHEN calibrating: Flashing Red and Yellow = should not happen when calibrating. Flashing Green and Yellow = should not happen when calibrating. Battery voltage mat be below cut-off voltage. Flashing Green OR Red while beeping = indicates speed control is looking for full throttle (green) or full reverse (red). If it continues for more than ~ 8 seconds, indicates speed control is seeing partial throttle (green) or reverse (red), increase endpoints on transmitter so speed control sees full throttle/reverse. Solid Green OR Red = indicates full throttle (green) or reverse (red) has been read. Solid or Flashing Yellow - ESC is seeing a neutral signal. If it does not change then you are either plugged into the wrong channel on the receiver or there is a problem with your radio. Flashing green, red and yellow while beeping = speed control is not receiving a valid signal from the receiver. Usually indicates the receiver wire is plugged in backwards into the receiver; also happens when speed control has accepted a calibration setting (throttle, reverse or neutral) and flashes/chimes 4 times before moving to next calibration point; or problem with throttle channel on receiver.
Cryo-Drive
Castle’s newest software technology, CRYO-DRIVE™ minimizes the amount of time the ESC's electrical components spend generating heat by optimally controlling which components are being used while driving the motor. This is happening thousands of times per second, which greatly reduces the rate at which the ESC heats up. This results in significantly improved thermal performance during partial throttle operation where the majority of driving occurs. Your setup will be able to handle higher gear ratios, in heavier vehicles, with longer runs
Cobra 5
The Cobra 5 builds on the Mamba XLX2 with faster 32-bit processing, smoother motor control, improved braking and reverse tuning, and upgraded current and thermal protection. Its enhanced data logging offers twice the sample rate, up to 8x more logging time, continuous looping, and new motor timing and acceleration data from the onboard accelerometer. Unlike the Mamba XLX2, the standard Cobra 5 has a current limiter that cannot be disabled, making it better suited for high-performance bashing and general use rather than extreme drag racing or speed runs. For drag and speed-run applications where unrestricted current is needed, the Cobra 5 ACE offers a disableable current limiter along with additional performance-focused tuning feature.
The Cobra 5 ACE is based on the Cobra 5 platform but is specifically tuned for drag racing and high-speed applications. Unlike the standard Cobra 5, the ACE allows the current limiter to be completely disabled, giving experienced users access to unrestricted power delivery for speed runs and hard launches; because of the extreme demands of these applications, the Cobra 5 ACE is sold with no warranty. The ACE also adds advanced tuning features including up to 45° of Boost and Turbo motor timing, adjustable Start Power with ramp and hold-time controls, and programmable throttle curves that can automatically shape power delivery during a launch. These additional controls make the Cobra 5 ACE the better choice for experienced drag and speed-run enthusiasts who need precise control over how and when power is delivered.
Cobra 8
The Cobra 8 has CryoDrive, where-as the Monster X does not. Cobra 8 features an enhanced data logger over the Monster X; it allows for up to 20 samples per second (vs 10 on the Monster X). It also has 8x the storage capacity, records motor electrical timing and G-forces. It also has cyclical logging that never fills up and stops recording. The Cobra 8 also offers a reverse to forward brake and a reverse lockout timer. For crawling enthusiasts, it also boasts the new Hill Hold feature. Learn more about Hill Hold here.
Yes! Although Cobra 8 and Castle brushless motors are waterproof, they are not intended for operation while completely submerged in liquid. They are designed to handle normal wet conditions like driving through puddles, wet grass and snow; they are not designed to be submerged like a submarine. The ESC can corrode when exposed to corrosive materials, such as salt water. Always rinse the ESC and motor with clean water after exposure to corrosives or dirt. While the motor and controller may be waterproof, we suggest users confirm that the rest of their vehicle, including the batteries, servos, radio and chassis are also waterproof before exposing them to liquids of any kind. The fan must also be removed when exposed to wet conditions as it is not waterproof. The sensor and receiver harness connection to the ESC can be affected by water; particularly salty, dirty or brackish water. Applying dielectric grease to the connections will help prevent signal interruption when wet and protect against corrosion.
OUR MINIMUM BATTERY RATING FOR ALL 1/10th AND 1/8th APPLICATIONS IS 5000mah AND 30C CONTINUOUS DISCHARGE. Feel free to give us a call if you'd like to know if your particular pack is going to handle the discharge currents these systems are capable of producing. Please keep in mind there are numerous brands on the market and we simply cannot know them all...our tech guys are good, but aren't that good.
Any 540 or 550 brushed motor in forward only or forward with reverse. With brushless the limit is not a straight forward answer. It is dependent on motor kv, motor size, battery voltage, vehicle weight, gearing and driving style. If you're not sure if a motor is appropriate for the Cobra 8 please give our technical support department a call at 913-390-6939 or send them a message. They’ll be more than happy to assist you..
You can use the Cobra 8 in a variety of situations and with a variety of motors. They will handle any of our CM36 2 pole motors (4600, 5700, 6900, 7700, 9000), 1406 4 pole motors (4600, 5700, 6900, 7700), 1410-3800, 1412-3200, 1415-2400, 1515-2200, 1512-1800,. Our ESCs will also drive ANY manufacturer’s sensorless motor provided the kv, size of the motor can, and application are all at or below the recommendations for the equivalent Castle motor. If you have questions about using another manufacturer’s motor with your Castle ESC please give our technical support department a call at 913-390-6939 or send them a message. They’ll be more than happy to assist you.
You should use whatever your battery manufacturer’s recommendations are. Your speed controller came with a factory cutoff of 3.2v/cell. If you need to adjust this you can use a Castle Link or Field Link to program the speed controller for anything from 3.0v to 3.5v per cell.
The BEC can be set to from 5.0 to 8.0 volts in 0.1 volt increments via the Castle Link V4 USB programmer; the default is 5.5 volts.
The maximum input voltage is 25.2v (6s LiPo). NiMH use is not recommended except in very specific applications (such as when a Castle product is powering another manufacturer’s vehicle as these applications have been thoroughly tested). Nearly every other application will draw too much current and can cause speed controller failure using NiMH cells.
Cobra 10
The Cobra 10 has CryoDrive, where-as the Mamba X does not. Learn more about CryoDrive here. Cobra 10 features an enhanced data logger over the Mamba X; it allows for up to 20 samples per second (vs 10 on the Mamba X). It also has 8x the storage capacity, records motor electrical timing and G-forces. It also has cyclical logging that never fills up and stops recording. The Cobra 10 also offers a reverse to forward brake and a reverse lockout timer. For crawling enthusiasts, it also boasts the new Hill Hold feature.
Yes! Although Cobra 10 and Castle brushless motors are waterproof, they are not intended for operation while completely submerged in liquid. They are designed to handle normal wet conditions like driving through puddles, wet grass and snow; they are not designed to be submerged like a submarine. The ESC can corrode when exposed to corrosive materials, such as salt water. Always rinse the ESC and motor with clean water after exposure to corrosives or dirt. While the motor and controller may be waterproof, we suggest users confirm that the rest of their vehicle, including the batteries, servos, radio and chassis are also waterproof before exposing them to liquids of any kind. The fan must also be removed when exposed to wet conditions as it is not waterproof. The sensor and receiver harness connection to the ESC can be affected by water; particularly salty, dirty or brackish water. Applying dielectric grease to the connections will help prevent signal interruption when wet and protect against corrosion.
Our minimum battery rating for all 1/10th and 1/8th applications is 5000mah and 30C continuous discharge.
Any 540 or 550 brushed motor in forward only or forward with reverse. With brushless the limit is not a straight forward answer. It is dependent on motor kv, motor size, battery voltage, vehicle weight, gearing and driving style. If you're not sure if a motor is appropriate for the Cobra 10 please contact our tech support.
You can use the Cobra 10 in a variety of situations and with a variety of motors. They will handle any of our CM36 2 pole motors (4600, 5700, 6900, 7700, 9000), 1406 4 pole motors (4600, 5700, 6900, 7700), 1410-3800, 1412-3200, 1415-2400, 1515-2200, 1512-1800,. Our ESCs will also drive ANY manufacturer’s sensorless motor provided the kv, size of the motor can, and application are all at or below the recommendations for the equivalent Castle motor.
The BEC can be set to from 5.0 to 8.0 volts in 0.1 volt increments via the Castle Link V4 USB programmer; the default is 5.5 volts.
The maximum input voltage is 25.2v (6s LiPo). NiMH use is not recommended except in very specific applications (such as when a Castle product is powering another manufacturer’s vehicle as these applications have been thoroughly tested). Nearly every other application will draw too much current and can cause speed controller failure using NiMH cells.
Copperhead 10
The Mamba X is higher amperage, has a stronger and more tunable BEC, wider voltage range (2S-6S vs 2S-4S on the CH10), more data logging capability and has the auxiliary wire.
Make sure the A, B and C wires between the ESC and motor are correctly aligned (A-A, B-B, C-C), and then plug the sensor wire between the motor and ESC. There are no settings that need to be changed on the ESC to utilize the sensored function of the ESC.
Our minimum batter rating for all 1/10th and 1/8th applications is 5000mah and 30C continuous discharge.
Yes! Although the Copperhead 10 ESC and Castle brushless motors are waterproof, they are not intended for operation while completely submerged in liquid. They are designed to handle normal wet conditions like driving through puddles, wet grass and snow; they are not designed to be submerged like a submarine. The ESC can corrode when exposed to corrosive materials, such as salt water. Always rinse the ESC and motor with clean water after exposure to corrosives or dirt. While the motor and controller may be waterproof, we suggest users confirm that the rest of their vehicle, including the batteries, servos, radio and chassis are also waterproof before exposing them to liquids of any kind.
With brushed you can use 540 size 15T brushed with reverse, 9T with forward only, and with brushless the limit is the equivalent kv, motor size, and voltage as the Castle combos.
You can use the Copperhead 10 in a variety of situations and with a variety of motors. They will handle any of our CM36 2 pole motors (4600, 5700, 6900, 7700, 9000), 1406 4 pole motors (4600, 5700, 6900, 7700), 1410-3800, 1412-3200, and 1415-2400. Our ESCs will also drive ANY manufacturer’s sensorless motor provided the kv, size of the motor can, and application are all at or below the recommendations for the equivalent Castle motor.
You should use whatever your battery manufacturer’s recommendations are. Your speed controller came with a factory cutoff of 3.2v/cell. If you need to adjust this you can use a Castle Link or B-Link to program the speed controller for anything from 3.0v to 3.5v per cell.
The BEC can be set to 5.5 or 7.5 volts via the Castle Link; the default is 5.5 volts.
The maximum input voltage is 16.8v (4s LiPo). NiMH use is not recommended except in very specific applications (such as when a Castle product is powering another manufacturer’s vehicle as these applications have been thoroughly tested). Nearly every other application will draw too much current and can cause speed controller failure using NiMH cells.
A Copperhead 10 does not have the current handling capability that is required for drag racing. We HIGHLY recommend you use a Mamba X ESC for any motor 5T and higher (5.5T, 6.5T, etc), and a Monster X for anything lower than a 5T (4.5T, 3.5T, etc).
Mamba Micro X2
The Mamba Micro X2 is capable of running up to a 4s LiPo; the original Micro X was 3s Max. It also has data logging and CryoDrive; CryoDrive allows the ESC to run cooler and more efficient at partial throttle.
The Sidewinder Micro does not handle as much amperage, and as such does not handle as wide a variety of motors as the Mamba Micro X2. The Micro X2 will handle all of the 20mm and 26mm motors, and even 1/10th scale crawler setups, whereas the Sidewinder Micro is limited to 20mm motors. It is also waterproof, can run sensored motors, has data logging, and an auxiliary wire.
You will need the optional Castle Sensor Harness (Link to Sensor harness page) to connect a sensored motor. This allows you to adapt to a standard sensor wire that will connect to your sensored motor. You must remove the dust cover on the ESC to expose the pins before you connect the Castle Sensor Harness. You do not need to change any ESC settings to use a sensored motor.
Many customers have had great success using the Mamba Micro X2 on some crawlers. The Holmes Hobbies Stubby Puller Pro 2200kv is a great choice.
Our minimum battery rating for all 1/18th applications is 1500mah and 30C continuous discharge.
We do not typically recommend brushed or brushless motors larger than 380 size with the Mamba Micro X2. Many customers have had great success using the Mamba Micro X2 on some crawlers. Our "slate" 1406 series 1900kv, 2280kv and 2850kv work very well. The Holmes Hobbies Stubby Puller Pro 2200kv is also choice. You must stick with a low kv 540 motor to prevent overheating or damaging the ESC.
Yes! Although Mamba Micro X2 and Castle brushless motors are waterproof, they are not intended for operation while completely submerged in liquid. They are designed to handle normal wet conditions like driving through puddles, wet grass and snow; they are not designed to be submerged like a submarine. The ESC can corrode when exposed to corrosive materials, such as salt water. Always rinse the ESC and motor with clean water after exposure to corrosives or dirt. While the motor and controller may be waterproof, we suggest users confirm that the rest of their vehicle, including the batteries, servos, radio and chassis are also waterproof before exposing them to liquids of any kind.
You should use whatever your battery manufacturer recommends. Your speed controller came with a factory cutoff of 3.2v/cell. If you need to adjust this you can use a Castle Link or B-Link Bluetooth adapter to program the speed controller for anything from 3.0v to 3.5v per cell
Yes, you can change select 5.5 or 7.5 volts via the Castle Link; default is 5.5 volts.
Mamba Monster 2
The Mamba Monster 2 is waterproof where-as the original Mamba Monster was not waterproof. The Mamba Monster 2 also has a removable fan that runs directly off the receiver; this is needed because the fan is not waterproof and must be removed when run in wet conditions.
The best LiPo packs on the market right now that we've tested thoroughly are the NeuEnergy 5000 30C, FlightPower Eon 5000 30C, Thunder Power 5000 40C, Thunder Power 5200 50C, Thunder Power 5300 65C, and MaxAmps 5250 and 6500 packs. This is not to say these are the only packs that will work, these are the only packs we've tested that we KNOW work. Our minimum battery rating for all 1/10th and 1/8th applications is 5000mah and 30C continuous discharge.
Yes! Although the Mamba Monster 2 and Castle brushless motors are waterproof, they are not intended for operation while completely submerged in liquid. They are designed to handle normal wet conditions like driving through puddles, wet grass and snow; they are not designed to be submerged like a submarine. The ESC can corrode when exposed to corrosive materials, such as salt water. Always rinse the ESC and motor with clean water after exposure to corrosives or dirt. While the motor and controller may be waterproof, we suggest users confirm that the rest of their vehicle, including the batteries, servos, radio and chassis are also waterproof before exposing them to liquids of any kind.
Any 540 or 550 brushed motor in forward only or forward with reverse. With brushless the limit is the equivalent kv, motor size, and voltage as the Castle combos.
You can use the Mamba Monster in a variety of situations and with a variety of motors. They will handle any of our CM36 2 pole motors (4600, 5700, 6900, 7700, 9000), 1406 4 pole motors (4600, 5700, 6900, 7700), 1410-3800, 1415-2400, 1512-2650, 1515-2200, 1512-1800, 1518-1800, 1520-1600, and 1717-1500. Our ESCs will also drive ANY manufacturer’s sensorless motor provided the kv, size of the motor can, and application are all at or below the recommendations for the equivalent Castle motor.
You should use whatever your battery manufacturer’s recommendations are. Your speed controller came with a factory cutoff of 3.2v/cell. If you need to adjust this you can use a Castle Link or Field Link to program the speed controller for anything from 3.0v to 3.5v per cell.
The BEC can be adjusted from 5.0 - 7.0 volts in .1 volt increments via the Castle Link; the default output voltage is 5.5 volts.
The maximum input voltage is 25.2v (6s LiPo). NiMH use is not recommended except in very specific applications (such as when a Castle product is powering another manufacturer’s vehicle as these applications have been thoroughly tested). Nearly every other application will draw too much current and can cause speed controller failure using NiMH cells.
We do not recommend the Mamba Monster 2. It has current limiting built into it and cannot be disabled. Please use either the Mamba Monster X, the Monster X 8S, or the Monster 2 Retro Edition. The Retro has older firmware that you do not have access to with the standard Monster 2 ESC.
Mamba Monster X
Both ESCs have the same voltage and amperage ratings and can be used interchangeably. The Monster X supports sensored motors (with optional X series sensor harness), has an auxiliary wire, on-board data logging and a higher amperage rated BEC for high power digital servos.
You will need to purchase the Castle X series sensor harness to connect to a standard sensor wire and your sensored motor. You will need to remove the dust cover from the ESC to insert the X series sensor harness. Make sure the A, B and C wires between the ESC and motor are correctly aligned. There are no settings that need to be changed on the ESC to utilize the sensored function of the ESC.
It has come to our attention that some users are experiencing an abnormally high failure rate on their fans; if your ESC has a red X on top this applies; if it has the update chrome/silver X then this does not apply as they contain the updated fan. We have noticed that users that have multiple fan failures have increased their BEC voltage to 7.5 or 8.0 volts. Because the fan is rated for 5 volts and runs directly off the BEC voltage this is stressing the fan and leading to increased failure rates. We are currently looking into higher voltage fans but for now it is recommended to reduce the BEC voltage to 7.0 or even 6.0 volts to maximize fan life.
A high power brushless system requires high power battery and connectors. We recommend running a minimum 5000mAh capacity and 30C continuous discharge rating; there is no such thing as too much mAh or C rating, the higher the better. Using batteries below these ratings will results in reduced performance and could potentially damage your batteries and/or ESC. We also recommend using a connector rated for at least 120 amps; E-Flite EC5, Spektrum IC5, Castle 6.5mm bullet and Castle 6.5mm polarized connectors are recommended.
Yes! Although Mamba Monster X and Castle brushless motors are waterproof, they are not intended for operation while completely submerged in liquid. They are designed to handle normal wet conditions like driving through puddles, wet grass and snow; they are not designed to be submerged like a submarine. The ESC can corrode when exposed to corrosive materials, such as salt water. Always rinse the ESC and motor with clean water after exposure to corrosives or dirt. While the motor and controller may be waterproof, we suggest users confirm that the rest of their vehicle, including the batteries, servos, radio and chassis are also waterproof before exposing them to liquids of any kind.
Any 540 or 550 brushed motor in forward only or forward with reverse. With brushless the limit is the equivalent kv, motor size, and voltage as the Castle combos.
You can use the Mamba Monster in a variety of situations and with a variety of motors. They will handle any of our CM36 2 pole motors (4600, 5700, 6900, 7700, 9000), 1406 4 pole motors (4600, 5700, 6900, 7700), 1410-3800, 1415-2400, 1512-2650, 1515-2200, 1512-1800, 1518-1800, 1520-1600, and 1717-1500. Our ESCs will also drive ANY manufacturer’s sensorless or sensored motor provided the kv, size of the motor can, and application are all at or below the recommendations for the equivalent Castle motor. With the optional X Series sensor harness you can use any 550 or 1/8th scale sensored brushless motor.
The BEC can be set to 5.5, 6.0, 7.5 or 8.0 volts via the Castle Link; the default is 5.5 volts.
The maximum input voltage is 25.2v (6s LiPo). NiMH use is not recommended except in very specific applications (such as when a Castle product is powering another manufacturer’s vehicle as these applications have been thoroughly tested). Nearly every other application will draw too much current and can cause speed controller failure using NiMH cells.
Mamba Monster X 8s
Both the Mamba Monster X 8s and Mamba XL X handle up to 8s (33.6v).
You will need the Castle X series sensor harness to connect to a standard sensor wire and your sensored motor; the sensor harness is included with the Mamba Monster X 8s. Make sure the A, B and C wires between the ESC and motor are correctly aligned. There are no settings that need to be changed on the ESC to utilize the sensored function of the ESC.
A high power brushless system requires high power battery and connectors. We recommend running a minimum 5000mAh capacity and 50C continuous discharge rating; there is no such thing as too much mAh or C rating, the higher the better. Using batteries below these ratings will results in reduced performance and could potentially damage your batteries and/or ESC. We also recommend using a connector rated for at least 120 amps; E-Flite EC5, Spektrum IC5, Castle 6.5mm bullet and Castle 6.5mm polarized connectors are recommended.
Yes! Although Mamba Monster X 8s and Castle brushless motors are waterproof, they are not intended for operation while completely submerged in liquid. They are designed to handle normal wet conditions like driving through puddles, wet grass and snow; they are not designed to be submerged like a submarine. The ESC can corrode when exposed to corrosive materials, such as salt water. Always rinse the ESC and motor with clean water after exposure to corrosives or dirt. While the motor and controller may be waterproof, we suggest users confirm that the rest of their vehicle, including the batteries, servos, radio and chassis are also waterproof before exposing them to liquids of any kind.
Any 540 or 550 brushed motor in forward only or forward with reverse. With brushless the limit is the equivalent kv, motor size, and voltage as the Castle combos.
You can use the Mamba Monster in a variety of situations and with a variety of motors. They will handle any of our CM36 2 pole motors (4600, 5700, 6900, 7700, 9000), 1406 4 pole motors (4600, 5700, 6900, 7700), 1410-3800, 1415-2400, 1512-2650, 1515-2200, 1512-1800, 1518-1800, 1520-1600, 1717-1650, 2028-800. Our ESCs will also drive ANY manufacturer’s sensorless and sensored motor provided the kv, size of the motor can, and application are all at or below the recommendations for the equivalent Castle motor. With the sensor harness you can use any 550 or 1/8th scale sensored brushless motor.
You should use whatever your battery manufacturer’s recommendations are. Your speed controller came with a factory cutoff of 3.2v/cell. If you need to adjust this you can use a Castle Link or Field Link to program the speed controller for anything from 3.0v to 3.5v per cell.
The BEC can be set to 5.5, 6.0, 7.5 or 8.0 volts via the Castle Link; the default is 5.5 volts.
The maximum input voltage is 33.6v (8s LiPo). NiMH use is not recommended except in very specific applications (such as when a Castle product is powering another manufacturer’s vehicle as these applications have been thoroughly tested). Nearly every other application will draw too much current and can cause speed controller failure using NiMH cells.
Mamba X
The Mamba Max is waterproof, has a much larger BEC, includes data logging and has the auxiliary wire. The Mamba X can be used in any application that the Mamba Max Pro can run.
You will need to purchase the Castle X series sensor harness to connect to a standard sensor wire and your sensored motor. You will need to remove the dust cover from the ESC to insert the X series sensor harness. Make sure the A, B and C wires between the ESC and motor are correctly aligned. There are no settings that need to be changed on the ESC to utilize the sensored function of the ESC. The default motor type "Smart Sense brushless" is a hybrid mode; it uses the sensors to get the motor started smoothly then switches to sensorless operation; sensorless operation runs more efficiently and results in cooler ESC and motor temperatures.
Our minimum battery rating for all 1/10th and 1/8th applications is 5000mah and 30C continuous discharge.
Yes! Although Mamba X and Castle brushless motors are waterproof, they are not intended for operation while completely submerged in liquid. They are designed to handle normal wet conditions like driving through puddles, wet grass and snow; they are not designed to be submerged like a submarine. The ESC can corrode when exposed to corrosive materials, such as salt water. Always rinse the ESC and motor with clean water after exposure to corrosives or dirt. While the motor and controller may be waterproof, we suggest users confirm that the rest of their vehicle, including the batteries, servos, radio and chassis are also waterproof before exposing them to liquids of any kind. The fan must also be removed when exposed to wet conditions as it is not waterproof. The sensor and receiver harness connection to the ESC can be affected by water; particularly salty, dirty or brackish water. Applying dielectric grease to the connections will help prevent signal interruption when wet and protect against corrosion.
Any 540 or 550 brushed motor in forward only or forward with reverse. With brushless the limit is not a straight forward answer. It is dependent on motor kv, motor size, battery voltage, vehicle weight, gearing and driving style.
You can use the Mamba X in a variety of situations and with a variety of motors. They will handle any of our CM36 2 pole motors (4600, 5700, 6900, 7700, 9000), 1406 4 pole motors (4600, 5700, 6900, 7700), 1410-3800, 1412-3200, 1415-2400, 1515-2200, 1512-1800,. Our ESCs will also drive ANY manufacturer’s sensorless motor provided the kv, size of the motor can, and application are all at or below the recommendations for the equivalent Castle motor. If you have questions about using another manufacturer’s motor with your Castle ESC please give our technical support department a call at 913-390-6939 or send them a message. They’ll be more than happy to assist you.
You should use whatever your battery manufacturer’s recommendations are. Your speed controller came with a factory cutoff of 3.2v/cell. If you need to adjust this you can use a Castle Link or Field Link to program the speed controller for anything from 3.0v to 3.5v per cell.
The BEC can be set to 5.5, 6.0, 7.5 or 8.0 volts via the Castle Link USB programmer or B-Link Bluetooth adapter; the default is 5.5 volts.
The maximum input voltage is 25.2v (6s LiPo). NiMH use is not recommended except in very specific applications (such as when a Castle product is powering another manufacturer’s vehicle as these applications have been thoroughly tested). Nearly every other application will draw too much current and can cause speed controller failure using NiMH cells
A Mamba X ESC is fine for no prep drag racing for any motor 5T and higher (5.5T, 6.5T, etc). It is HIGHLY recommended to use a Monster X for anything lower than a 5T (4.5T, 3.5T, etc).
Mamba XLX2
The Mamba XLX2 is waterproof, sensored capable, has CryoDrive and a larger 50mm fan. The ESC runs significantly cooler at partial throttle due to CyroDrive. The current sensor can read significantly higher current levels. The 8mm female motor bullets are mounted directly to the circuit board. The internal capacitor layout results in significantly lower ripple voltage.
The XLX2 has threaded mounting holes on the bottom of the case; it has the same bolt spacing as the XLX ESC.
The fan on the Mamba XLX2 is thermally controlled and only runs when the ESC heats up above 130° F (54° C). It will continue to run until the ESC cools down below 125° F (51° C). When the ESC is first turned on the fan will run to show you it is operable; when the ESC arms the fan will shut off and be thermally controlled. There is a setting in Castle Link, under the Basic tab, to allow the fan to run continuously.
Yes, the voltage output of the BEC can be changed in 0.25v increments from 5.0 to 8.5 volts. Default is 5.5 volts.
The Mamba XLX2 will handle a maximum of 33.6 volts or 8s Non-HV LiPo.
Our speed controllers will run about any other sensored or sensorless brushless motors on the market. The only limitation is the amount of current the motor will draw. It must be comparable to the current the current our motor will draw (around 5,000 watts).
If you are using the stock Traxxas TQi radio you may experience this problem. Traxxas has built a unique function in to the stock radio; if the motor temperature sensor detects a high motor temperature it causes the radio to go in to a reduced power mode (50% throttle). If the temperature sensor from the original motor is not connected to the receiver it will default into the reduced power mode. To resolve the issue you will need to remove the temperature sensor from the original motor and reinstall it in the receiver; it does not need to be wrapped around the motor, it just needs to be installed. The gray plug goes in the "Vt" port on the receiver, the red plug goes in ANY numbered channel (1,3,4 or 5) on the receiver. Just tuck the sensor cable out of the way and it will simply read ambient temperature and allow the receiver to send out a full throttle signal.
The recommended maximum operating temperature of the Mamba XLX2 ESC is 200° F/93° C.
Make sure you have the stock temp sensor and voltage sensor installed in the receiver. The grey plug needs to be in the V/T slot at the top right corner of the Traxxas receiver, the red plug in either channel 3, 4 or 5. Without these plugged in the ESC will not receive the proper signals from the transmitter & receiver
Phoenix Edge/Edge HV/Sidewinder 3/Sidewinder SCT
The white auxiliary wire can be used for helicopter governor gain input adjustments mid-flight, serve as an audible beacon after an “unexpected landing”, act as an RPM output for 3-axis gyros that support RPM sensors, be used as an ESC arming lock or as a receiver arming lock.
No, these highly versatile controllers have all the programing capabilities to fill the need of airplane and helicopter enthusiasts alike.
No, airplane users will find the audible beacon feature quite useful for those "unexpected landings" as it makes the motor sound off louder than during plug in and arming, the ESC arming lock and will prevent the ESC from powering up accidentally while your battery is plugged in, and the receiver arming lock will prevent your entire system from powering up during the same scenario
An arming lock key (ALK) prevents your ESC from arming while the key is plugged into the socket. Once the key is removed, and your ESC receives a low throttle signal, the ESC will arm. If the key is inserted while the motor is running, the ESC will go into the arm lockout state stopping the motor from running and preventing the ESC from arming. More information can be found here.
You can plug this into any channel on your receiver. It is up to the user which channel they choose to plug this into depending on the function they choose the auxiliary wire to perform. Please refer to page 3 in your Phoenix EDGE User Guide for more information.
It has not, however the allowed voltage output has increased from 7V up to 8.4V on the Edge line of controllers allowing for high voltage servos to be operated to their full potential
No, you do not have to use it. You can either leave it unplugged and is disabled by default.
You plug the EDGE into the Castle Link, go to the "Other" tab, and hit the drop down for the "Auxiliary Wire Mode". Select the function you would like to use, and hit "update" in the lower right hand corner to send the settings to the device. You will then need to configure your radio's auxiliary channel to the appropriate values to complete the setup.
We recommend a maximum of 180° F/82° C. The over-temperature error code will start at 220°F/104° C. It will thermally shut down at 250° F/121° C.
Of course! We have kept the datalogging function to provide feedback on your setup. We simply added even more versatility by adding the auxiliary wire function. We've added governor gain logging and added current, voltage, and temperature cutoff bars in the graph viewer. No steps backwards here!
The EDGE Lite ESCs are intended for applications with extreme air-flow, such as EDF planes where the ESC is in direct airflow of the exhaust, or applications with average current requirements much less than peak current requirements. They also weigh less than the standard version of the Edge controllers for applications where weight is a concern.
Castle Creations makes every effort to ensure that our speed controllers will run every sensorless brushless hobby grade motor currently available on the market.
These are error codes built into the EDGE controllers to let you know what issue your setup is currently experiencing. Please refer to pages 2 and 3 in your Phoenix EDGE User Guide for more information.
At power up, Automatic Data Reset checks the amount of memory used. If that value is more than the programmed limit, the controller will erase the entire data log. This ensures that the last few runs are saved to memory and available for analysis. This setting can be disabled or set to always erase on startup using the Castle Link USB programmer. Please note that erasing only takes place after the controller arms.
Power controller up with TX & RX on and set to full throttle. The controller will chime the normal power up chimes. Leave TX at full throttle for 6 seconds after power up. The controller will emit a short tone after 1 second and then a long tone 5 seconds later. The controller will then erase the entire data log. Move the throttle stick to lowest position to arm the controller.
Yes! You can now purchase an extra Arming Lock Key through our website. You can find the Arm Lock Key for sale here.
NO! This is ensuring that you get the best possible signal quality between your ESC and receiver, and removing it can potentially cause radio interference issues.
It will. Check with your battery manufacturer for the proper cutoff voltage, and use our Castle Link Programmer to set the proper cutoff voltage for your particular cell type.
Yes, but not up to the max cell count of the ESC and without Auto-LiPo detection feature. The new HV cells charge up to 4.35 volts per cell compared to a standard LiPo at 4.2 volts per cell. If you run the ESC to it's maximum cell count rating you will over volt the ESC. So if the ESC has an "8s" LiPo rating you will be limited to a 7s with using HV LIPo cells. The Auto-LiPo detection feature will not work correctly with HV cells; the ESC will detect an extra cell and set the cut-off voltage too high. When using HV LiPo cells you must set a custom cut-off voltage setting via Castle Link or B-Link.
Sidewinder 4
The Sidewinder 4 uses a fixed 5v 2A peak BEC whereas the CH10 has a 5.5v or 7.5v adjustable 6A peak BEC. The Sidewinder 4 is capable of 2-3S LiPo while the CH10 is capable of 2S-4S LiPo. The CH10 has data logging capability and is able to run sensorless, sensored and brushed. The Sidewinder 4 is sensorless and brushed only.
Our minimum battery rating for all 1/10th and 1/8th applications is 5000mah and 30C continuous discharge. Feel free to give us a call if you'd like to know if your particular pack is going to handle the discharge currents these systems are capable of producing. Please keep in mind there are numerous brands on the market and we simply cannot know them all...our tech guys are good, but aren't that good.
Yes! Although the Sidewinder 4 ESC and Castle brushless motors are waterproof, they are not intended for operation while completely submerged in liquid. They are designed to handle normal wet conditions like driving through puddles, wet grass and snow; they are not designed to be submerged like a submarine. The ESC can corrode when exposed to corrosive materials, such as salt water. Always rinse the ESC and motor with clean water after exposure to corrosives or dirt. While the motor and controller may be waterproof, we suggest users confirm that the rest of their vehicle, including the batteries, servos, radio and chassis are also waterproof before exposing them to liquids of any kind. The fan must also be removed when exposed to wet conditions as it is not waterproof.
With brushed you can use 15T brushed with reverse, 9T with forward only, and with brushless the limit is the equivalent kv, motor size, and voltage as the Castle combos.
A replacement fan for the Sidewinder 4 is available for purchase on the website. The part number is 011-0140-00. Available here.
You can use the Sidewinder 4 in a variety of situations and with a variety of motors. They will handle any of our CM36 2 pole motors (4600, 5700, 6900, 7700, 9000), 1406 4 pole motors (4600, 5700, 6900, 7700), 1410-3800, and 1415-2400. Our ESCs will also drive ANY manufacturer’s sensorless motor provided the kv, size of the motor can, and application are all at or below the recommendations for the equivalent Castle motor. If you have questions about using another manufacturer’s motor with your Castle ESC please give our technical support department a call at 913-390-6939 or send them a message. They’ll be more than happy to assist you.
The BEC is fixed at 5v output on the Sidewinder 4 ESC.
The maximum input voltage is 12.6v (3s LiPo). NiMH use is not recommended except in very specific applications (such as when a Castle product is powering another manufacturer’s vehicle as these applications have been thoroughly tested). Nearly every other application will draw too much current and can cause speed controller failure using NiMH cells.
A Sidewinder 4 does not have the current handling capability that is required for drag racing. We HIGHLY recommend you use a Mamba X ESC for any motor 5T and higher (5.5T, 6.5T, etc), and a Monster X for anything lower than a 5T (4.5T, 3.5T, etc).
Sidewinder 8th
The Sidewinder 8th has a lower amperage rating compared to the Mamba Monster series ESCs. As such the Mamba Monster can run in heavier vehicles and run more aggressive gearing for higher speeds. The Sidewinder 8th should not be used in vehicles weighing more than 10 lbs and only with stock gearing. The BEC's output voltage on the Sidewinder 8th The 2200kv motor paired with the Sidewinder 8th is the same motor as the 2200kv paired with the Mamba Monsters; the only difference is the version sold with the Sidewinder 8th is smooth and the Monster version has small cooling ribs.
The best LiPo packs on the market right now that we've tested thoroughly are the NeuEnergy 5000 30C, FlightPower Eon 5000 30C, Thunder Power 5000 40C, Thunder Power 5200 50C, Thunder Power 5300 65C, and MaxAmps 5250 and 6500 packs. This is not to say these are the only packs that will work, these are the only packs we've tested that we KNOW work. OUR MINIMUM BATTERY RATING FOR ALL 1/10th AND 1/8th APPLICATIONS IS 5000mah AND 30C CONTINUOUS DISCHARGE. Feel free to give us a call if you'd like to know if your particular pack is going to handle the discharge currents these systems are capable of producing. Please keep in mind there are numerous brands on the market and we simply cannot know them all...our tech guys are good, but aren't that good.
Yes! Although the Sidewinder 8th and Castle brushless motors are waterproof, they are not intended for operation while completely submerged in liquid. They are designed to handle normal wet conditions like driving through puddles, wet grass and snow; they are not designed to be submerged like a submarine. The ESC can corrode when exposed to corrosive materials, such as salt water. Always rinse the ESC and motor with clean water after exposure to corrosives or dirt. While the motor and controller may be waterproof, we suggest users confirm that the rest of their vehicle, including the batteries, servos, radio and chassis are also waterproof before exposing them to liquids of any kind.
Any 540 or 550 brushed motor in forward only or forward with reverse. With brushless the limit is the equivalent kv, motor size, and voltage as the Castle combos.
You can use the Sidewinder 8th in a variety of situations and with a variety of motors. They will handle any of our CM36 2 pole motors (4600, 5700, 6900, 7700, 9000), 1406 4 pole motors (4600, 5700, 6900, 7700), 1410-3800, 1415-2400, 1512-2650, 1515-2200, 1512-1800, 1518-1800, 1520-1600, and 1717-1500. Our ESCs will also drive ANY manufacturer’s sensorless motor provided the kv, size of the motor can, and application are all at or below the recommendations for the equivalent Castle motor. If you have questions about using another manufacturer’s motor with your Castle ESC please give our technical support department a call at 913-390-6939 or send them a message. They’ll be more than happy to assist you.
You should use whatever your battery manufacturer’s recommendations are. Your speed controller came with a factory cutoff of 3.2v/cell. If you need to adjust this you can use a Castle Link or Field Link to program the speed controller for anything from 3.0v to 3.5v per cell.
No, it is set to 5.5 volts and cannot be adjusted.
The maximum input voltage is 25.2v (6s LiPo). NiMH use is not recommended except in very specific applications (such as when a Castle product is powering another manufacturer’s vehicle as these applications have been thoroughly tested). Nearly every other application will draw too much current and can cause speed controller failure using NiMH cells.
Sidewinder Nano
The Sidewinder Nano is sensorless only when using brushless motors.
It works in 1/24 and 1/18 scale rock crawlers, monster trucks, etc.
The max scale is 1/18. It will not handle a 1/10.
It will not handle a 540 size (or equivalent 1/10 motor). Any appropriately sized outrunner can be utilized. A 1806 (stator size) is popular for the 24th scale crawlers, monster trucks, etc. 3000-3500ish kv for 2s, 2000-2500kv for 3s. (motor outside dimensions are ~16mm diameter, ~20mm length). A 2204 to 2208 (stator size) is a good choice for 1/18th scale crawlers (IE Axial UTB18, Traxxas TRX4m). Same kvs as above. (motor outside dimensions ~28mm diameter, ~26mm length)
It is rated for 5v fixed, 5A peak. If you need more voltage or amperage please use the Nano BEC. It is rated for 8.4v fixed output, 4A continuous and 6A peak.
180mAh for crawling, 300mAh for bashing. 30C minimum, but the higher the better.
280 motors for bashing, 370 motors for crawling. If you have questions about using another manufacturer’s motor with your Castle ESC please give our technical support department a call at 913-390-6939. They’ll be more than happy to assist you.
It is NOT waterproof, but is coated with silicone conformal coating to help make it water resistant. Do not submerge the ESC in water.
You should use whatever your battery manufacturer recommends. Your speed controller came with a factory cutoff of 3.2v/cell. If you need to adjust this you can use a Castle Link or B-Link Bluetooth adapter to program the speed controller for anything from 3.0v to 3.5v per cell.
No, it is 5v fixed output.
Talon 15/25/35/60/90
The Talon series of ESCs does not have a data logger or the auxiliary wire. They do offer a higher amperage rated BEC over the Phoenix Edge series and at a lower price point.
It does not. The Phoenix Edge and older Phoenix ICE ESCs have data logging capabilities.
We recommend a maximum of 180° F/82° C. The over-temperature error code will start at ~220°F/104° C. It will thermally shut down at ~250° F/121° C.
This is dependent entirely on the amperage level of the setup. We offer bullet connectors ranging from 4mm (60 amps) up to 8mm (300 amps). You can find our bullet connectors here along with other Castle accessories. The Talon 90 ESC has 5.5mm female bullets attached directly to the circuit board (the Align version of the Talon 90 uses 4mm female bullets)
The Talon 90 ESC has 5.5mm female bullets attached directly to the circuit board; the Talon 90 sold RTF in Align helicopters uses 4mm female bullets.
The Talon 90 can be set to 6.0(default) or 8.0 volts via the Castle USB programmer. The Talon 15/25/35 have a fixed BEC voltage at 5.5 volts.
Yes. You can lengthen the wires on the motor side of the speed controller and the battery side, but caution must be taken in both instances. If you do not HAVE to lengthen the wires, DO NOT DO IT. On the motor side you must ensure that you use the same gauge of wire that is already on the controller or larger and use the same length of wire for each of the extensions. The longer the extension the greater the chances of having a motor operation issue (trouble starting, etc). Obviously you will want to thoroughly check motor operation prior to flight. On the battery side you will want to use the same gauge of wire that is already on the controller or larger and use the same length of wire for each of the extensions. We include 7” (17.8cm) of wire on the battery side of our controllers. Most LiPo battery packs will have approximately 5” (12.7cm) on them. You can run up to 18” of total wire between the ESC and battery (including the above mentioned wires on the ESC and battery) Anything over this combined 18” (30.5cm) you will need to add extra capacitors to smooth out the ripple that will be generated as a result of the extensions. A good rule of thumb is one capacitor for every 4-6” (10-15cm) of wire you add to the system. Remember that you must count any y or series harnesses to this as well. You want to place the capacitor(s) as close to the point where the battery wires solder to the ESC as possible. We sell a capacitor bank called the CC Cap Pack that works very well in these situations.
It will. Check with your battery manufacturer for the proper cutoff voltage, and use our Castle Link Programmer to set the proper cutoff voltage for your particular cell type.
Castle Creations makes every effort to ensure that our speed controllers will run every sensorless brushless hobby grade motor currently available on the market.
PWM stands for Pulse Width Modulation. The speed controller uses PWM to control the power going to the motor. The controller breaks the current going to the motor into separate pulses that occur thousands of times per second. The percentage of the pulse that is on power compared to the part of the pulse that is off power determines how much power the motor sees. An oversimplified example is that if 50% of the pulse is on and 50% is off, the motor sees 50% power. It is important to note that each on phase of the pulse is equal to the full current draw of the motor and prop at full throttle. Thus, the importance of all components in the system be fully capable of extended periods at full throttle.
This is based entirely on the motor. Nearly all inrunner motors will use 12KHz. Scorpion outrunners operate best at 8KHz on our software. All other outrunners can use either 12KHz or outrunner motor. Check power output and motor temperature using both to determine which is best for your motor. If you are still unsure, contact our tech support.
With fixed endpoints the ESC dictates what points will be used for full throttle and zero throttle. You calibrate the transmitter to the full throttle and zero throttle points the ESC has designated. With this method you do not have to run the motor up to full throttle prior to a flight. You simply plug in the battery and fly. This is handy with high powered aircraft, 3D planes, jets, or if you simply do not wish to go through the auto calibration process. See question #19 below for instructions on how to set your transmitter for fixed endpoints.
You can follow along in this video, download a PDF of instructions, or follow these instructions: Go to the endpoint adjustment screen on your transmitter (EPA/Travel/ATV on the various radios). Move the throttle stick to the top position and bring the endpoint percentage down to 30%. Next, move the throttle stick to the bottom position and bring the endpoint percentage down to 30%. Put the throttle stick back to the full throttle position. If you have a separate receiver battery, turn it on. If not, plug your battery pack into the ESC. After the initialization tones, start dialing the endpoint percentage from 30% out towards 100% (and sometimes past) until you hear a single tone. Then increase the percentage two more points to ensure you will always achieve full throttle. Next, bring the throttle stick to the bottom position. You will hear another single tone. Increase the endpoint percentage from 30% out towards 100% (and sometimes past) until you hear a double tone (the arming tone). Then increase the percentage two more points to ensure you will always achieve zero throttle. USE CAUTION AS THE ESC WILL BE ARMED AT THIS POINT! That’s it! You should have throttle response as soon as the stick is moved up.
This is mainly dependent on the type of aircraft you are flying. NEVER use a brake if you are flying an EDF or a helicopter. Most people choose not to use the brake when they are flying 3D or aerobatic aircraft. This way the prop will freewheel when coming in for landing and when in throttle off situations during maneuvers. For all other types of aircraft it is up to the user.
Hard brake will engage at 100% strength and fully stop the prop at zero throttle. Soft brake will engage the brake at 50% strength which will slow the prop down.
Yes, but not up to the max cell count of the ESC and without Auto-LiPo detection feature. The new HV cells charge up to 4.35 volts per cell compared to a standard LiPo at 4.2 volts per cell. If you run the ESC to it's maximum cell count rating you will over volt the ESC. So if the ESC has an "6s" LiPo rating you will be limited to a 5s with using HV LIPo cells. The Auto-LiPo detection feature will not work correctly with HV cells; the ESC will detect an extra cell and set the cut-off voltage too high. When using HV LiPo cells you must set a custom cut-off voltage setting via Castle Link or B-Link.
Talon HV 120
The Talon series of ESCs does not have a data logger or the auxiliary wire. The Talon HV 120 has an on-board BEC and the Phoenix Edge HV series does not have a BEC.
It does not. The Phoenix Edge and older Phoenix ICE ESCs have data logging capabilities.
These are error codes built into the Talon controllers to let you know what issue your setup is currently experiencing. Please refer to Talon User Guide for more information.
We recommend a maximum of 180° F/82° C. The over-temperature error code will start at ~220°F/104° C. It will thermally shut down at ~250° F/121° C.
First, make sure that on your Castle Link screen in the lower left hand corner you have a green USB connection status. If you do not then please refer to the Castle Link FAQ (LINK TO FAQ) section. If you do have a green USB connection status, the next step is to plug the ESC into the Castle Link. On the Castle Link circuit board just behind the three pins there are marks for positive (+), negative (-), and signal (Ω). The orange signal wire goes where the Ω pin is, the red goes where the “+” is, and the brown wire goes where the “-“ is. Be sure you have disconnected the black & red BEC wire from your receiver before attempting to link your Talon HV 120 (see this addendum included with your ESC); it will not connect to the Castle Link if it is still plugged into the receiver. If you have disabled the red (+) wire going to the receiver you will need to plug in a battery pack to power the ESC. Anything above 2s LiPo will do. Plug the ESC in first, then the battery pack. The ESC should then connect. It will not work in the other order (battery first, then ESC to computer) so be sure to connect in the proper order.
The Talon HV 120 has 5.5mm female bullets attached directly to the circuit board.
The Talon HV 120 can be set to 6.0 (default) or 8.0 volts via the Castle Link USB programmer.
Yes. You can lengthen the wires on the motor side of the speed controller and the battery side, but caution must be taken in both instances. If you do not HAVE to lengthen the wires, DO NOT DO IT. On the motor side you must ensure that you use the same gauge of wire that is already on the controller or larger and use the same length of wire for each of the extensions. The longer the extension the greater the chances of having a motor operation issue (trouble starting, etc). Obviously you will want to thoroughly check motor operation prior to flight. On the battery side you will want to use the same gauge of wire that is already on the controller or larger and use the same length of wire for each of the extensions. We include 7” (17.8cm) of wire on the battery side of our controllers. Most LiPo battery packs will have approximately 5” (12.7cm) on them. You can run up to 18” of total wire between the ESC and battery (including the above mentioned wires on the ESC and battery) Anything over this combined 18” (30.5cm) you will need to add extra capacitors to smooth out the ripple that will be generated as a result of the extensions. A good rule of thumb is one capacitor for every 4-6” (10-15cm) of wire you add to the system. Remember that you must count any y or series harnesses to this as well. You want to place the capacitor(s) as close to the point where the battery wires solder to the ESC as possible. We sell a capacitor bank called the CC Cap Pack that works very well in these situations.
It will. Check with your battery manufacturer for the proper cutoff voltage, and use our Castle Link Programmer to set the proper cutoff voltage for your particular cell type.
No, all Castle speed controllers have a core value. You can visit our Repair Center for details on how to send in your ESC for non-warranty replacement.
Castle Creations makes every effort to ensure that our speed controllers will run every sensorless brushless hobby grade motor currently available on the market.
The most likely cause of this problem is a lithium polymer battery pack that is not capable of providing the current the motor, gear ratio, and propeller are asking for. Normally the voltage curve for LiPo batteries is almost flat, but when overdrawn their voltage will fall below the cutoff point before the battery is discharged completely. The solution for this situation is either a higher gear ratio or a smaller prop, which lowers the current draw of the system. Or, if the performance is not wished to be lost, a higher mAh, or more capable brand of LiPo pack can be used. Another less likely cause for premature low voltage cutoff is too small or too high a resistance plug between the battery and the ESC. Also make sure the wires on the battery pack are at least the same size as on the ESC. If the battery pack is up to the task, and the wires and plugs are sized correctly, it is possible that a sudden motor cut off, with the ability to restart by going to the off throttle position, could be caused by the over current protection on that particular controller being too sensitive.
Yes, but not up to the max cell count of the ESC and without Auto-LiPo detection feature. The new HV cells charge up to 4.35 volts per cell compared to a standard LiPo at 4.2 volts per cell. If you run the ESC to it's maximum cell count rating you will over volt the ESC. So if the ESC has an "12s" LiPo rating you will be limited to a 11s with using HV LIPo cells. The Auto-LiPo detection feature will not work correctly with HV cells; the ESC will detect an extra cell and set the cut-off voltage too high. When using HV LiPo cells you must set a custom cut-off voltage setting via Castle Link or B-Link.
BEC and BEC Pro
If you are running more servos or a higher voltage than the ESC manufacturer recommends when using the onboard BEC you should consider using a separate BEC. Also, there are times when the servos you are using, the number of them, or the application you will be using them in will overwhelm the BEC on the speed controller. In these cases it is strongly recommended that you use an external BEC to power your servos and receiver.
Helicopters do not use a brake, airplanes use less of a brake, and cars have massive brake surges which are sent back to the BEC and can damage them. You can use an airplane ESC with BRAKE DISABLED on 12s if you would like (at your own caution, Castle holds no responsibility).
The CC BEC can be programmed anywhere from 4.8-9v via the Castle Link USB programmer. It comes programmed from the factory at 5.1 volts.
The CC BEC Pro can be programmed anywhere from 4.9-12.5v via the Castle Link USB programmer. It comes programmed from the factory at 5.1 volts.
No. They connector will not handle the full amperage of the BEC. You must plug the leads into two separate channels.
Behind the three little prongs sticking out of the Castle Link chip there are symbols denoting signal, positive, and negative. These are marked “Ω”, “+”, and “–“ respectively. On Castle Creations products the orange wire is the signal wire, the red wire is the positive, and the brown is the negative.
The CC BEC is either not getting power from your battery pack, or is having an issue. Check the voltage of the battery pack, and verify voltage is getting through your battery connectors. If voltage is normal at all locations contact Castle Creations Technical Support.
There is excessive amp draw in the system, or too much voltage. Check all servos for proper operation, and check the output voltage from your CC BEC to verify it is at a safe level. If problem persists contact Castle Creations Technical Support.
First, verify that you have a green USB connection status in the lower left hand corner of the Castle Link screen. If not, go to the Castle Link FAQ section regarding loading the driver. If it is green but the ‘Device Connection Status’ light stays red, the USB port may not be able to provide enough current to power the CC BEC. Try plugging a battery pack into the CC BEC. This may also be necessary if you’ve already soldered the ESC to the CC BEC. If the problem persists contact Castle Creations Technical Support.
The resistance of the wire and the length of the wire going to your receiver will lower the voltage output slightly. This is normal. If you check the voltage at the board where the leads attach you’ll see the voltage is right where you programmed it for.
No, switching regulators like the CC BEC and BEC Pro will fight each other if used in parallel. A separate component is needed to isolate them from each other.
Please check with your servo and receiver manufacturers to attain these ratings. All servos and receivers will accept different amounts of voltage. Castle Creations is not responsible for any damage to servos or receivers due to over-voltage.
You’ll need to change out the plugs to something that will handle the current. Castle Creations is looking into alternative solutions for our customers that will fit r/c applications.
The first units we produced function just like all of our other products and upon every power up looks for a connection to the Castle Link. Some Spektrum receivers do the same only on the battery channel looking to bind with the transmitter. On these systems the CC BEC can be plugged into any channel on the receiver other than the battery channel, the orange wire pin between the BEC and the receiver can be pulled and taped back, or you can insert a short servo extension with the signal lead removed. If this fix is not satisfactory Castle Creations will modify your CC BEC free of charge so that it will not have this issue. Please visit our Repair Center on the website for information on sending your product in for repair. ONLY APPLICABLE TO UNITS PURCHASED BEFORE NOV. 1, 2007. THOSE WHO PURCHASED CC BECS AFTER NOV. 1, 2007 ALREADY HAVE THIS MODIFICATION AND DO NOT NEED TO SEND IT IN. For this modification, you must include your sales receipt indicating date of purchase.
No, never throw a Castle Creations product away! Send it in to us and for a flat rate repair fee we’ll repair or replace it. You can find details on our service process at our Repair Center.
NO! DEFINITELY DO NOT DO THIS! YOU WILL FRY YOUR ESC!
Yes, that’s one of the primary uses of the CC BEC/BEC Pro.
DEFINITELY! It’ll work in electric, nitro, and gas powered craft of all types!
The voltage output of the CC BEC will drop as the battery pack voltage drops. It cannot output more voltage than it is seeing on the input.
Minimum is 4.8v, maximum is 25.2v (2s-6s LiPo).
Minimum is 4.8v, maximum is 50.4v (2s-12s LiPo)
No, the BEC can only put out as much as it is getting on the input or less. It cannot increase voltage.
You may use the Air Field Link programming card to change the output voltage as well. Aside from these two devices there is no other way to change the output voltage.
Absolutely! This is where the CC BEC excels! The CC BEC will work in electric, nitro, or gas airplanes, helicopters, boats, cars, and trucks.
There are two ways to use the CC BEC. You can use it with a separate battery pack to power your servos and receiver, or when weight and space are tight, you can use it with your main flight pack to supply power to the servos and receiver.
Yes, it will work with any type of battery pack.
Yes, it will work with any speed controller on the market.
No, there is no low voltage cutoff on the CC BEC or BEC Pro. You must ensure that the pack you are plugged into does not drop below the voltage recommended by your battery manufacturer. Castle Creations assumes no liability if your battery pack is drained down below the acceptable voltage limit.
To test if the CC BEC will safely be able to operate everything you have it powering, disconnect the motor, turn on your transmitter, plug in a freshly charged battery pack (the same one you’re going to use the CC BEC with), and exercise all servos (turn on/off other devices) simultaneously for 20 seconds. If you see the servos slow down to a crawl or stop, or the LED on the CC BEC is flashing rapidly, you are exceeding the current level the CC BEC can safely handle.
No, the CC BEC and BEC Pro are not waterproof. They are sprayed with silicone conformal coating to make it water resistant. Castle Creations will not cover water damage under warranty.
B-Link
The B-Link 2 Bluetooth adapter adds support to our newer 32-bit (Cobra series) ESCs. It also utilizes the newer 32-bit processor and a more powerful Bluetooth module. This increases the data transfer speed and range over the original B-Link.
Yes, the original B-Link Adapter will work with the Castle Link 2 app on Android and iOS and will support most non-32-bit ESCs. A list of ESCs and BECs supported by the B-Link 2 and new Castle Link 2 app can be found here.
No. Unfortunately a new database was required to support the new B-Link hardware. You will need to register for a new account on the Castle Link 2 app. Any vehicles that were saved in the original Castle Link app will not cross over to the Castle Link 2 app. We apologize for any inconvenience.
Yes, B-Link is completely waterproof, enabling you to leave it installed in nearly every environment imaginable!
You have access to every setting with a B-Link that is available to you on the PC version of Castle Link 2. You can also update firmware (internet connection required) and download data logs (on supported ESC).
Yes, you can leave the B-Link in line in any application. You can remove it if you choose to though. Some older ESCs without the Hot Reset feature (Sidewinder 3/SCT, Sidewinder 8th, Monster 2, and all air ESCs, will require you to disconnect the B-Link 2 from the receiver when connecting to the app.
It works with both Android and iOS. Android requires version 5.0 and higher, Apple devices require iOS version 10.0 and higher.
Unfortunately, we cannot make it work with every ESC and accessory we’ve produced. Some processors just don’t have the ability to communicate with it.
No, you do not have to create an account to use the B-Link, however, we recommend doing so as you will not be able to sync information between multiple devices.
It is highly recommended to change the default passcode. If someone knows your passcode, they can change settings on your ESC and even stop it from working while you’re flying/driving.
An internet connection is required to download the Castle Link app to your phone and any updates to the app. You will also need an internet connection when attempting to update the firmware on your ESC.
Unfortunately, you cannot use the B-Link and the Telemetry Link simultaneously.
You can use the B-Link and Quick Connect/Quick Connect Duo together. They must be in the proper order however. The ESC must be connected to the Quick Connect/Quick Connect Duo, then to the B-Link, and then the B-Link into the receiver.
If you have access to a Castle Link USB programmer, plug into a PC and click “defaults” in the lower right corner. Then go up to the “software” tab at the top. After verifying you are loading the version of firmware you want the ESC on, click the “Update Firmware” button. After the firmware update completes click “defaults” in the lower right corner one more time. The ESC should function normally again.
Please report this information to our technical support staff via email here so they can pass this information on to our software engineers. Please include details about the brand of device you are using, the carrier (if applicable), what version of Android or iOS your device uses, and any specific details that will help us recreate the issue ourselves.
We recommend these steps: 1. Turn off power to the ESC/accessory and close the app down on the device COMPLETELY. 2. Re-open the app and attempt to make the connection again. 3. If you open the app and it does not show it is reloading (step 1 of 6, 2 of 6, etc,) you did not close the app all the way down. 4. Please close it all the way down and repeat the above steps. 5.
We know that it will work with many of these ESCs, but we cannot guarantee that it will work with them.
No, B-Link will only work with Castle brand ESCs and accessories.
No, you can only connect to one ESC at a time. You can however save a profile, connect the ESCs individually, and save the profile to them to ensure they have the same settings programmed in them for operation.
Yes, that is normal and means the device you have plugged in to the B-Link is communicating with the B-Link software.
Disconnect the ESC from the B-Link and plug the ESC into another slot on your receiver (ch3, AUX1, etc.). Then plug the supplied jumper into the ESC side of the B-Link, and power up the ESC. The red LED will begin flashing. When it goes solid your B-Link has been reset. You can turn the ESC off, disconnect the jumper, plug the ESC back into the B-Link, and go back through the on-screen procedures. You’re all set!
Yes! The B-Link will automatically recognize the new ESC you’ve plugged into and read its settings. You can then make any desired changes and either disconnect it or just leave it installed.
We will update the database on our end, and your B-Link will automatically recognize the device or allow for updates to the latest firmware for your existing device. Just make sure you have your phone or smart device set to automatically download updates for the Castle Link app!
This is a bit tricky. You’ll need TWO sources of power for this process, one to power the ESC and one to power the receiver. You’ll need to power the B-Link via the receiver first using a separate BEC or receiver battery pack and then power the processor on the ESC by plugging in your main battery pack. It should make a connection after that.
You’ll want to leave the red wire going from the ESC to the B-Link enabled and disconnect the red wire going from the B-Link to the receiver. This will allow voltage from the ESC to power the B-Link and make programming easier but still stops any power from going to your receiver and allows you to use a separate BEC or receiver battery pack.
This is a bit tricky. You will need TWO sources of power for this process, one to power the BEC Pro and one to power the receiver. You will need to use the two wire jumper supplied with your CC BEC Pro, and plug it into the ESC side of the B-Link. The receiver side of the B-Link needs to be plugged into one of the slots on your receiver. Use a receiver battery pack to power the receiver first. Then plug in a separate battery to the CC BEC Pro to power it. You should then be able to program the BEC Pro.
Plug the 3 wire lead coming off the BEC 2.0/BEC 2.0 WP into the ESC side of the B-Link 2 and then apply power to the BEC 2.0/BEC 2.0 WP. It should make the connection and allow you to program the output voltage.
The B-Link requires you to give permission to use your location when first installing the application. Make sure you choose either "allow when app is in use" or "allow all the time". If you hit "deny" on accident or your phone does not see the B-Link when trying to connect to a device, go into your settings, go to your location permissions, find the Castle Link app, and change the permission manually. Make sure you have your GPS on your phone enabled as well. The Castle Link app should then be able to see the B-Link.
Frequently asked questions
What is the auxiliary wire and do I need to hook it up to my receiver?
By default the auxiliary wire is disabled and does nothing. If you are not utilizing this function you can leave the auxiliary wire (white wire) disconnected from the receiver. The auxiliary wire gives you the ability to adjust 1 of 8 ESC settings from your transmitter, via an auxiliary channel and dial/toggle switch, while you are operating the vehicle. To use this function you must program the auxiliary wire to one of the 8 available setting on the Castle Link; it is located on the “Advanced” tab. The 8 selectable settings are:
- None (Default) - AUX wire does not affect controller parameters.
- Max Throttle Adjustment - The controller's max power is controlled by the AUX wire signal. The power is scaled from 10% at 1.1ms signal received on the AUX wire to 100% at 1.9ms. If the AUX wire becomes disconnected, the controller will use the max forward and reverse powers set in Castle Link.
- Max Reverse Adjustment - The controller's max reverse power is controlled by the AUX wire signal. The reverse power is scaled from 10% at 1.1ms signal received on the AUX wire to 100% at 1.9ms. If the AUX wire becomes disconnected, the controller will use the max reverse power set in Castle Link.
- Max Brake Adjustment - The controller's max brake is controlled by the AUX wire signal. The brake strength is scaled from 10% at 1.1ms signal received on the AUX wire to 100% at 1.9ms. If the AUX wire becomes disconnected, the controller will use the brake strength set in Castle Link.
- Drag Brake Adjustment - The controller's drag brake is controlled by the AUX wire signal. The drag brake is scaled from 0% at 1.1ms signal received on the AUX wire to 100% at 1.9ms. If the AUX wire becomes disconnected, the controller will use the drag brake value set in Castle Link.
- Reverse Enable/Disable - Reversing is disabled when the AUX wire receives a signal above 50% (>1.5ms). When the controller receives an AUX wire signal below 50% or the cable becomes disconnected, reverse capability is enabled.
- Torque Control Adjustment - The controller's torque limit is controlled by the AUX wire signal. The torque control is scaled from 0.1 at 1.1ms signal received on the AUX wire to 5.0 at 1.9ms. Torque control is disabled when the input exceeds 1.9ms. If the AUX wire becomes disconnected, the controller will use the torque limit set in Castle Link.
- Idle Datalog Erase (Auxiliary Wire) - The controller will clear its data log when the AUX wire signal quickly alternates between greater and less than 50% (1.5ms) for a few seconds. This will only occur while the controller is idling.
- Rock Race/Crawler Mode - Allows you to change between Reverse Types and drag brake. Please refer to this page on our website for more details.
I’m setting up a new car. How do I know which speed controller/motor to buy?
That’s what our expert technical support staff is for. Give them a call at 913-390-6939 or send them a message.They’ll be more than happy to assist you in deciding on a product.
I’ve calibrated, but the car goes backwards with forward throttle.
Make sure the green LED is showing when you give forward throttle. If it is, then just swap any two of the ESC to motor wires to reverse the rotation direction of the motor (see note below for sensored operation). You may also reverse the direction of the motor using built-in manual programming, Castle Link USB adapter, or B-Link Bluetooth adapter. If the ESC shows the red LED with forward throttle, you will need to reverse your throttle channel on your transmitter (via a micro switch, or within the programming of the radio) and recalibrate.
Sensored motors: If you are running a sensored motor then you MUST keep A, B and C orientated properly. To change the motor direction with a sensored motor you must change the Motor Direction setting via the built-in manual programming or Castle Link USB adapter.
Why does my ESC not beep and show a solid red when trying to calibrate with a Spektrum SR6100AT receiver?
We have found that Spektrum has added a safety feature that interferes with our normal calibration and manual programming process. Our ESCs require you to power up the ESC at full throttle; the Spektrum SR6100AT receiver will not boot up properly until the throttle trigger is at neutral.
The solution we have found is to power up the ESC at neutral, wait for the receiver LED to turn solid amber, then apply full throttle; this allows the receiver to boot up properly.
WARNING:REMOVE Pinion gear or disengage motor from spur gear! You must apply full throttle BEFORE the ESC arms (double chime after LiPo cell count), but AFTER the receiver boots up and goes solid yellow. If the ESC arms and then you apply throttle the motor will run! We have found that waiting until the Auto LiPo feature counts the 3rd cell the receiver is operational and full throttle can be applied.
My battery pack is plugged into the ESC, and nothing is working - no steering, and no throttle.
Make sure the ESC is plugged into channel 2/throttle on the receiver, and that it's plugged in with the correct orientation. Double check your solder connections on the battery plug. Generally if you have no steering with everything plugged in correctly, then your receiver is either not getting power or not getting a signal from your transmitter.
My ESC calibrates for the full throttle and full brake positions, but won't calibrate to the neutral throttle position (yellow LED keeps flashing and ESC is beeping).
The ESC should flash the yellow LED when it is armed; this indicates the ESC is logging data. If it is flashing yellow AND beeping, try moving the throttle trim one way, then the other (usually towards the throttle side is best). If your transmitter has a 50/50 and 70/30 setting for the throttle, set it for 50/50 and retry calibration.
My ESC may or may not arm, but it will not calibrate to my transmitter.
Most calibration issues can be solved by settings on the transmitter. Make sure you have both your throttle and reverse endpoints (called EPA, ATV, or Travel on your radio) on the throttle channel out to 100 to 120%. If you have a Spektrum transmitter and have an “E” and “F” slider switch near your thumb, adjust the throttle dual rate slider out to the maximum value as well; some also have a "Throttle Limit" switch, amke sure it is set to 100. If you have a "Brake Rate" setting, make sure it is turned full Clockwise. If you have a Futaba, Tactic or FlySky transmitter, set the throttle channel to the reversed position.
My fan has stopped working on my ESC. What can I do?
Replacement fans can be found here.
I’m getting an error whenever I try to update settings or update the firmware on my speed controller. What is wrong?
There may be an issue with the processor on the speed controller. Try un-installing the Castle Link firmware on your computer or another computer, try downgrading to a different version of firmware, try unplugging the Castle Link chip from the end of the USB cable and plugging it back in, and see if any of these resolve the issue for you. If you are still having issues please fill out a contact form.
What Auto-LiPo Volts/cell cutoff should I be using with my ESC?
You should use whatever your battery manufacturer’s recommendations are. Your speed controller came with a factory cutoff of 3.2v/cell. If you need to adjust this you can use a Castle Link or Field Link to program the speed controller for anything from 3.0v to 3.5v per cell.
My speed controller beeps approximately every ~10 seconds. What is that?
That is a feature we added called the “Power On Warning Beep”. It lets you know that your battery pack is still plugged in whenever the speed controller is seeing zero throttle or no throttle from the transmitter at all. This is a safety feature implemented due to the advent of LiPo technology. You can disable it if you would like using the Castle Link USB programmer or B-Link Bluetooth adapter, but it is recommended that it be kept enabled.
Is there a special color sequence I should plug the motor wires into my ESC?
There is no polarity with a sensorless brushless motor. This means the color coding does not matter at all. Simply plug the wires into the speed controller. If it runs the motor the wrong direction simply swap any two wires between the motor and ESC or plug the ESC into your Castle Link and reverse the rotation of the motor using the software. If you are running a sensored motor then you MUST keep A, B and C orientated properly. To change the motor direction with a sensored motor you must change the Motor Direction setting on the Castle Link.
Will cutting the switch off my ESC void my warranty?
No, it will not void the warranty as long as you only cut off the switch, solder the wires together, and cover them with shrink tubing on the outside the controller. Opening the controller and bridging the connection on the circuit board WILL void your warranty. ANY soldering on the speed controller will immediately void the warranty, no exceptions.
What do the flashing LEDs mean?
The LEDs can have different meanings depending on what you are doing.
If you are not calibrating and have no throttle input then:
- Flashing Green OR Red = Speed control has not been calibrated and is not armed; or throttle sub-trim is not at 0.
- Solid Green OR Red = should not happen when at neutral, indicates full throttle/reverse
- Yellow LED flashing - Indicates the ESC at neutral. Motor type set to Sensored only brushless mode with CHEAT mode disabled; ESC is armed and ready to drive.
- Yellow LED is solid – Indicates the ESC at neutral. Motor motor type set to Smart Sense Brushless or Sensored only brushless mode with CHEAT mode enabled; ESC is armed and ready to drive.
- Flashing green, red and yellow while beeping = speed control is not receiving a valid signal from the receiver, usually indicates the receiver wire is plugged in backwards into the receiver; possible problem with controller or with throttle channel on receiver
If you are applying throttle or reverse when NOT calibrating:
- Flashing Green OR Red = indicates partial throttle (green) or reverse (red)
- Solid Green OR Red = indicates full throttle (green) or reverse (red)
- Flashing green, red and yellow while beeping = speed control is not receiving a valid signal from the receiver, usually indicates the receiver wire is plugged in backwards into the receiver; possible problem with controller or with throttle channel on receiver
- Solid or Flashing Yellow - ESC is seeing a neutral signal. If it does not change then you are either plugged into the wrong channel on the receiver or there is a problem with your radio.
If you are applying throttle or reverse WHEN calibrating:
- Flashing Red and Yellow = should not happen when calibrating
- Flashing Green and Yellow = should not happen when calibrating. Battery voltage mat be below cut-off voltage.
- Flashing Green OR Red while beeping = indicates speed control is looking for full throttle (green) or full reverse (red). If it continues for more than ~ 8 seconds, indicates speed control is seeing partial throttle (green) or reverse (red), increase endpoints on transmitter so speed control sees full throttle/reverse.
- Solid Green OR Red = indicates full throttle (green) or reverse (red) has been read
- Solid or Flashing Yellow - ESC is seeing a neutral signal. If it does not change then you are either plugged into the wrong channel on the receiver or there is a problem with your radio.
Flashing green, red and yellow while beeping = speed control is not receiving a valid signal from the receiver. Usually indicates the receiver wire is plugged in backwards into the receiver; also happens when speed control has accepted a calibration setting (throttle, reverse or neutral) and flashes/chimes 4 times before moving to next calibration point; or problem with throttle channel on receiver.
What batteries and connectors do I need to use?
Castle recommends a minimum 5000mAh capacity and 50C continuous discharge LiPo. This is a very high power ESC and requires very strong batteries. Running higher mAh or C ratings is never a problem and will not hurt the ESC. We recommend a minimum 150A rated battery connector, XT150, Castle 6.5mm polarized, Castle 8mm bullets and Offshore Electrics 8mm antispark connectors are recommended.
I broke my ESC, and it was my fault. Am I stuck with a dead controller?
Castle Creations has a trade-in policy in situations like this. We will trade you out for the flat rate repair fee of the new controller. Fill out our non-warranty replacement form.
When I plug in my ESC into my Castle Link it doesn’t connect. What am I doing wrong?
First, make sure that on your Castle Link screen in the lower left hand corner you have a green USB connection status. If you do, the next step is to plug the ESC into the Castle Link. On the Castle Link circuit board just behind the three pins there are marks for positive (+), negative (-), and signal (Ω). The orange signal wire goes where the Ω pin is, the red goes where the “+” is, and the brown wire goes where the “-“ is. If you have disabled the red (+) wire going to the receiver you will need to plug in a battery pack to power the ESC. Anything above 2s LiPo will do. Plug the ESC in first, then the battery pack. The ESC should then connect. It will not work in the other order (battery first, then ESC to computer) so be sure to connect in the proper order.
Why does the fan on my ESC stop running when the ESC arms?
The fan on our ESCs are thermally controlled. When you first power up the ESC it will do a power on self-test to show you the fan is functional. When the ESC arms the fan will stop running and then only turn on when the ESC reaches 140° F/60° C.
Why does my ESC beep 4 times at neutral?
This is an “error” code that indicates the on-board data logger is full and the ESC has stopped recording new data. To stop this error you must clear the data log. There are 4 options to clear the error or prevent it from happening in the first place.
Option 1: You can clear the data log by powering up the ESC at full reverse and after you hear a long beep it will clear the data log; go to neutral and the ESC will arm as normal. When the log fills up again it will generate the error code again.
Option 2: You can connect the ESC to the Castle Link and click the “Clear Logged Data” button on the logging tab. This will clear the error code until the data is full again.
Option 3: You can force the ESC to reset the data on start-up which will clear the data every time it is powered up; it can still fill up during the run and generate the error code. To do this you will need to set the “Automatic Data Reset” setting on the Logging tab to “100% (Always)”.
Option 4: You can disable the data logging completely and it will never fill up because it is not logging and will not generate the error. To do this set the “Sample Frequency” on the Logging tab to “Disabled”.